What is Kumihimo? The Art of Japanese Braiding

Kumihimo, the traditional Japanese art of braiding, is a craft that seamlessly weaves together beauty, history, and functionality. Literally ‘gathered threads,’ kumihimo involves intricate braiding techniques that create strong and decorative cords which can be used for friendship bracelets, necklaces, pouches, and even shoelaces.

Sitting alongside the traditional art of flower arrangement known as ikebana, the famous tea ceremony, and classic calligraphy, kumihimo is one of Japan’s classical arts.

But what is kumihimo braiding, and how does it differ from other, similar crafts? This introduction to Japanese braided cord will give you everything you need to know, so read on for all the details.

The history of kumihimo dates back around 1,300 years. One of the first centres of kumihimo creativity was likely the ancient city of Nara in the north of the island of Honshu, however it developed broadly across different regions, particularly in connection with Buddhist temples and later in Edo (modern-day Tokyo). It emerged as a method for creating functional yet decorative items, including for decorating Buddhist scrolls.

Originally, this Japanese braided cord was an integral part of the nation’s culture. During the samurai era, kumihimo was used to both lace and embellish the armour of samurai warriors. Robust enough to endure the rigours of battle, the strength and flexibility of the cords made them ideal for fastening plates and securing protective gear. Kumihimo cord was also used in horse tack and armour, as well as in the traditional garments of Japan, such as kimonos and obi sashes. These cords were valued both for their utility and also for their ability to add colour, elegance, and artistry to everyday and ceremonial clothing.

As kumihimo evolved, tools like the marudai and takadai were introduced, enabling the creation of more intricate braids with greater efficiency and speed.

The three main types of kumihimo cord are round, flat, and square. Each type differs in its technique and the resulting braid’s shape and texture:

Round Braids (Maru-uchi Himo)

Round braids are cylindrical and flexible, often made on a marudai or round braiding disc. These are the most versatile type of kumihimo braid, used historically for things like laces and ties in kimonos. Today, they are popular in jewellery making and other accessories such as small pouches for trinkets.

Flat Braids (Hira-uchi Himo)

Flat braids produce a broad, ribbon-like braid. They’re typically used for creating straps, belts, or sashes, such as the obi in traditional Japanese attire, to decorate swords, and even to embellish the pieces used in the Japanese tea ceremony. The flat shape allows for intricate, colourful patterns to be displayed and more modern uses include bracelets, necklaces, shoelaces and belts.

Square-Shaped Braids (Kado-uchi Himo)

These braids have a square cross-section, known for their structured yet stylish appearance. They’re often used in traditional applications, such as in securing samurai armour or for more decorative purposes such as holding the sashes of kimono in place.

While round, flat, and square are the most common, there are many other forms and variations of Japanese braided cord, such as spiral or hexagonal braids.

To get started with kumihimo, you’ll need a few essential tools:

Kumihimo Disc or Marudai

The kumihimo disc, typically made of foam or plastic, is an accessible tool for beginners and is often used to create round or square braids. Square versions are also available to create flat braids. The marudai is a traditional wooden stand used by more advanced braiders, and offers greater versatility for complex braiding.

Bobbin or Tama

Bobbins, or tama when using a marudai, are used to manage and control the threads during braiding. They keep the threads organised and prevent tangling. If you’re using a marudai, you’ll need a counterweight, often referred to as a ‘top weight’ or ‘bag of pennies,’ to maintain tension on the braid as you work. This helps in achieving even, consistent braids.

Kumihimo Threads or Yarn

You can use a variety of materials for braiding, including thin silk, satin, cotton, or even synthetic fibres like a thicker nylon. The type and thickness of the thread will influence the braid’s final appearance and texture.

Scissors

A good pair of scissors is essential for cutting threads cleanly at the beginning and end of your project.

These tools will set you up for creating your own kumihimo cord, whether you’re a beginner trying out simple patterns or an experienced crafter exploring more intricate designs.

There are hundreds – if not thousands – of different Japanese braided cord patterns using anywhere from four, to over a hundred strands. The most detailed patterns can have over 400 individual steps and depending on what you want to do, you can use a single cord or a combination of different cords to create interesting textures and patterns.

Here’s a brief step-by-step guide to creating a basic kumihimo braid using a kumihimo disc and eight strands. This simple guide will help you get started with kumihimo and create your first braided project.

Prepare Your Thread

First, cut eight equal lengths of thread or cord, around 50 – 65 centimetres long. Then, tie all eight strands together in a knot at one end. This is the starting point of your braid.

Set Up The Disc

Insert the knotted end of your threads through the centre hole of the kumihimo disc, letting the knot hang below. Arrange the threads on the disc so that there are two threads positioned at each of the four main compass points, north, south, east, and west, or, if it’s easier, at 12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock.

Begin Braiding

Hold the disk with the knot hanging down. Start with the thread at the bottom (6 o’clock). Move it directly up to the slot at the top (12 o’clock). Next, take the thread from the top (now at 12 o’clock) and move it directly down to the slot at the bottom (6 o’clock). Rotate the disk 90 degrees to the left, so the threads are now positioned at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock.

Continue the Pattern

Repeat the process: move the bottom thread to the top, then move the top thread to the bottom, and rotate the disk 90 degrees anticlockwise. Continue braiding like this, maintaining tension on the threads as you work.

Finish the Braid

Once your braid is as long as you want it, remove the thread from the disc. Tie a knot at the end to secure it and trim any excess thread off with your scissors. It’s optional, but you can use a small dab of glue to the ends to stop them unravelling. Your basic kumihimo braid is now complete!

Now you know the answer to the question what is kumihimo braiding and as you gain confidence, you can explore more complex patterns and techniques.

The ancient art of Japanese braided cord continues to be celebrated for its versatility and beauty. While its historical uses remain a significant part of its story, kumihimo has found a new lease of life in modern fashion and design. Artisans, designers and hobbyists create kumihimo jewellery, fashion accessories, and decorative home items, as well as contemporary art installations, and even decorative cords for electronics or other luxury goods, as this ancient craft adapts to modern trends.

Whether you’re a seasoned crafter or a curious novice, kumihimo invites you to explore a world where age-old tradition meets new innovation, and where every braid tells a story. Its enduring appeal lies in its ability to connect people with Japan’s rich cultural heritage while providing an enjoyable creative outlet that’s both relaxing and rewarding.