What is Shibori?

Shibori is a traditional Japanese manual resist dyeing technique that involves folding, twisting, or bunching cloth and binding it tightly before colouring. This process creates intricate patterns and textures, resulting in unique pieces that showcase a beautiful blend of art and craftsmanship.

But what is shibori? This beginners guide will give you everything you need to know, so if you’re ‘dyeing’ to get started, read on for all the details.

The word shibori is from the Japanese root verb shiboru, which translates as ‘to wring, squeeze or press’, but debate rages on as to where the ancient art form originated from. The earliest surviving examples of shibori-dyed cloth in Japan date to the mid-eighth century, found among items donated to the Tōdai-ji Buddhist temple in Nara.

Originally used as a method to decorate kimonos and other garments, it was a way for people to add individuality to what they wore, as well as a method of making old clothes look new.

These shibori fabric patterns evolved – often embracing Japan’s love of the imperfect, known as wabi-sabi – into a seemingly endless number of ways in which fabric could be twisted, bound, folded or compressed, and it’s this variation, a mixture of vision, creativity and artisan craftsmanship, which is the essence of shibori.

Today, shibori dyeing remains an important part of Japanese textile traditions, and artists and designers continue to adapt the centuries-old techniques. As a purely decorative art, shibori fabric has dipped in and out of fashion over the years, but it has seen a recent resurgence in popularity, especially through social media.

One of the greatest benefits of shibori is its versatility. From clothing like scarves and shirts to home décor items such as cushions, curtains, and wall hangings, the possibilities are endless. This classic Japanese art form not only allows you to express your creativity but it’s also a fun and enjoyable hobby. Plus, it’s a potentially fun way to repurpose old clothing and fabrics, giving them a new lease of life.

Getting started with shibori dyeing is simpler than you might think, and you’ll probably have some of what you need at home. Everything else can usually be bought from your local hobby shop.

Fabric

Choose natural fibres like cotton, linen, silk, or hemp, as they absorb dye more effectively than synthetic materials.

Dye

Traditional shibori uses indigo dye, but you can choose any fabric dye suitable for natural fibres. DIY dye kits are widely available and often include everything you need.

Binding Materials

Gather items to fold, twist, and bind your fabric. Common materials include elastic bands, string, twine, wooden blocks, clamps, clothes pegs, and even household objects like marbles or coins that can create unique patterns.

Containers

You’ll need large plastic buckets or tubs for mixing the dye solution and soaking the fabric. Make sure you also have access to a water supply.

Protective Gear

Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands, as well as an apron or old clothes, as the dye can stain. It’s also a good idea to cover your workspace with plastic sheets or drop cloths.

Stirrer

Use a long spoon or stick (one that isn’t used for preparing food) to stir the dye bath.

Optional Tools

You may want items like brushes or sponges if you plan to apply dye directly onto the fabric, and a drying rack or clothesline for drying your finished pieces.

The answer to the question ‘what is shibori’ has a few different answers. There are three main methods – kōkechi, rōkechi, and kyōkechi – and each of the variations will fit into one of these categories.

Kōkechi

Also known as the tied or bound resist method, this involves folding, twisting, or compressing the fabric and then securing it tightly with strings, elastic bands, or other binding materials. These bindings create physical barriers that prevent the dye from penetrating certain areas, resulting in distinctive patterns once the bindings are removed after dyeing. In the West, we generally call this method tie-dye. Some of the most popular variations of the kōkechi method include –

• Kanoko Shibori – a technique where small sections of the fabric are tightly bound with thread to create tiny, detailed patterns resembling spots or dots.
• Miura Shibori – a method of looping and binding without tying knots. A hooked needle is used to pluck sections of the fabric, which are then loosely bound.
• Kumo Shibori – This involves pleating and binding the fabric in a way that produces spiderweb-like patterns.
• Nui Shibori – Nui uses stitching to create resist areas. The fabric is sewn with running stitches in desired patterns and then pulled tight to gather the cloth before dyeing.
• Arashi Shibori – This involves wrapping the fabric around a pole and binding it tightly before dyeing. The cloth is scrunched on the pole, creating diagonal stripes and patterns reminiscent of storm-driven rain – arashi means “storm” in Japanese.

Kyōkechi

Also known as the fold-and-clamp resist method of shibori, this involves folding the fabric and sandwiching it between two carved wooden blocks. The blocks are then clamped tightly together, and their carved designs prevent the dye from reaching certain parts of the fabric. This technique produces symmetrical and often geometric patterns once the fabric is unfolded after dyeing, and one of the most popular variations is known as itajime shibori, where the fabric is folded multiple times, creating repeating patterns when it’s unfurled.

Rōkechi

This is known as the wax resist technique. It uses melted wax applied to specific sections of the fabric. The waxed areas repel the dye during the dyeing process, preserving the original colour of the fabric beneath. After dyeing, the wax is removed, revealing intricate designs where the dye was resisted by the wax. This is the least-used method, and some experts don’t classify rōkechi as a type of shibori fabric dyeing at all.

Rōkechi is a term associated with wax-resist dyeing, but the more commonly used term in Japan for wax-resist techniques is rōketsuzome, often shortened to rōzome. It’s often considered a separate technique from shibori, more aligned with Indonesian batik.

What is Japanese shibori? It’s a hands-on process that not only allows you to express your creativity but also results in beautiful personalised items. Whether you’re looking to upcycle old fabrics or start a new project, shibori dyeing offers a fun and artistic outlet. So why not dye-ve in and add a touch of timeless Japanese elegance to your next DIY adventure?